Our time in Belhaven was productive, exciting and fun but, we were ready to get back on the water. Since we removed parts, replaced hoses and repaired pieces of the engine, we a little hesitant pulling off the dock. Like always, we had a few plans for where we would stop. The engines were happy, the waters calm and the weather bright and sunny, so we ended up going for a long ride and dropping the hook in Beaufort, NC.
The ICW consists of natural inlets, saltwater rivers, bays and man-made canals. Some spots are extremely shallow and narrow and some are large bodies of water. During the route from Belhaven to Beaufort, NC, we experiences many different types of waterways and each had an unique landscape and flavor. We cruised the Pamlico River, which was open, flat and calm. Then we entered Goose Creek which was narrow with marsh land and few houses. Our route continued to have us cross the Neuse River. The Neuse is the longest river contained entirely within North Carolina and is the widest river in the U.S. being six nautical miles across at its widest point. Thankfully, Mother Nature was on our side providing glass-like, calm water for our crossing. From the Neuse, we entered Adams Creek which is mostly undeveloped, good depth, well marked and clam. This makes for a relaxing ride trying to spot wildlife. Once approaching Morehead City and Beaufort, navigation becomes confusing with various ATON’s between the ICW and channel to Beaufort. Once we meandered through this mess, we turned the corner into Taylor Creek. All we could see was mast from sailboats in the anchorage but Three Sons found a spot and dropped the hook.
We took an exciting dinghy ride over to Shackleford Bank via Beaufort Inlet. It was not the usual peaceful dinghy ride with choppy water, extremely shallow spots and racing boats passing by throwing wakes. We were very thankful to beach the dinghy on the northern shore of Shackleford Bank. On the return trip, we took the western route around Carrot Island that lead to Taylor Creek. This was a very enjoyable dinghy ride.
We set out to walk around Shackleford Island which is the southern-most barrier island in Cape Lookout National Seashore, and home to more than 100 wild horses. Prior to arriving, we read about the wild horse and how they got to this beautiful uninhabited island. It is believed that the horses are descendants from Spanish shipwrecks in the 1500s. The horses have no natural predators on the island, therefore uncontrolled growth in population means depleted forage. We were surprised to learn, the herd size is controlled in two ways: birth control and removal. The island is 8.5 miles long and less than an mile wide. Both the north and south coastline has pristine sand for wonderful beach spots. Next time, we will bring not just a camera but beach chairs.
Once we got back on the boat and had dinner, we did another tour of Historical Beaufort. With a pamphlet in hand, we stopped by the Old Burial Ground and learned who was buried and why. We stopped in a Backyard Pub and Fishtowne Brew House. FBH had good beer but a very strange vibe of folks standing watching a movie. We ended our night at our favorite dive bar on the East Coast, Royal James Cafe. Although we did not eat (this time) we enjoyed watching burgers and fried bologna being cooked behind the bar.
The next morning before leaving, Beaufort, NC we visited the Olde Beaufort Farmers’ Market which take place on the courtyard grounds. The motto of the Farmers Market is “Where life slow down so neighbors can catch up.” The courtyard was filled with mostly craft booths selling beautiful pieces. We did not need anything so, we enjoyed pursuing and purchased a biscuit for breakfast and one zucchini for dinner.
Back on the boat we pulled up the anchor and started our cruise to Mile Hammock Bay which is out side of Camp Lejeune. The weather was unseasonably beautiful and being a Saturday, every boat in North Carolina was in the ICW. We were constantly being passed on both sides by fast boats enjoying the day. For some reason, we were not able to run Navionics on both our phones and Aqua Maps is just plan yucky, Between managing tech, dodging boats, paying attention to the many shoals, shallow spots and inlets that switch the currents and wind there was no rest on this run.
Segment Stats
- Belhaven, NC to Beaufort, NC
- Thursday, October 26, 2023
- 58.8 Nautical Miles
- Cruising Time: 7 hours 58 minutes
- Anchored in Taylor Creek outside of Beaufort Docks
- Beaufort, NC to Mile Hammock Bay
- Saturday, October 28, 2023
- Route: Taylor Creek to Bouge Sound
- 38.2 Nautical Miles
- Cruising Time: 5 hours 36 minutes
- Anchored in Mile Hammock Bay outside of Camp Lejeune
