We arrived in George Town, Exuma one day earlier than planned to avoid an either a really bad travel day or a 3 day delay waiting for lower winds. George Town harbor is a cruisers mecca. There were over 200 boats in the harbor when we arrived and the number is expected to rise close to 400 before we leave. George Town harbor is pretty well protected with Stocking Island running parallel with Great Exuma Cay.
The area had one big change this year with the addition of several mooring ball fields in the prized anchorages. This seemed to upset many of the regular cruisers who always managed to squeeze in year after year, but for us it was good news. Being new to this whole area, we had no desire to learn the George Town shuffle. Apparently, as the winds clock around from different directions from week to week (or day to day even), folks move their boats to the nearest shore with the best protection from the wind. Anchor dragging is to be avoided above all, but it seems to be too common an occurrence in the Bahamas. Besides safety and piece of mind, the moorings prevent the sensitive reef system in the Exumas from being dug up with anchors. The people of the Bahamas really do seem to appreciate the positive financial impact of the cruisers, but at the same time are beginning to realize the importance of protecting the beauty and resources of the area.
The other benefit of the mooring is that is gives us a home base to establish and to really settle into the area. We booked the mooring for 30 days; our longest stay in one place ever. George Town is basically the southern end of the Bahamas for most cruisers, as there aren’t many stops further south with services or good weather protection. George Town also has a relatively large airport that will allow Chris and Paul to join us from, and hopefully other guests too.
We spent our first few days exploring the area and learning about the cruising culture. The culture is one that we’ve never seen anywhere else in our travelers. Folks travel here year after year and establish traditions and friendships that run very deep. Cruisers organize many activities: ‘fun beach volleyball’, Euchre card games, beach yoga, water aerobics, and dinghy concerts, but the big event is the annual Cruiser’s Regatta. The Regatta includes several Sailing races as expected, but has a full schedule for over 10 days of games, activities, and social events. As power boaters, we are certainly the minority here amongst the sailboats but we are certainly welcomed quite warmly by the regulars. We’re also nearly outnumbered by Canadians, as the Bahamas appear to be their favorite winter cruising grounds.
Chat ‘N’ Chill
For some reason, similarities living in a nursing home, keep popping into our minds as we immerse ourselves in the George Town boater lifestyle. Each morning at 8AM, cruiser’s net is broadcasted on VHS channel 72. Here they announce activities for the day, upcoming community events, have a trade or give away segment, new folks introduce themselves and all sorts of questions are asked and answered. The “community room” for boaters is a local establishment on Stocking Island, Chat ‘N’ Chill. It’s essentially a day camp for people who lived on their boats in Elizabeth Harbor. Picnic tables, beautiful sand, a volleyball court, benches all available for cruisers to gather in a chilled-out, laid back, beautiful atmosphere. Our mooring is in a perfect location outside of Chat N Chill, a two minute dinghy ride finds us on the beach.
Da Sand Bar
A two mile dinghy ride north, we found Da Sand Bar. The beach bar had tons of drinks but only sold hot dogs that were grilled outside the shack to order and were were delicious. Amazingly, beautiful crystal clear water, fine white sand, a beach bar shack, some swings was a perfect day in paradise.
