Some loopers like them, some tolerate them, and a few say they are the worst part of the loop. Our next leg is the the inland rivers running from Chicago to Mobile covering 1,300 miles of rivers and canals.
Basically, this section involves traversing north to south along the Mississippi River. However, since the Mississippi is muddy and full of working barges, the loop route uses a series of rivers running parallel to the Mississippi. This route involves 5 main protected waterways: Illinois Waterway, Upper Mississippi River, Ohio River, Tennessee River and Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway. Using this route instead of the Mississippi River provides an attractive alternative, with less tugs and more anchorages/marinas. Over the next two months, we will be cruising south stopping in Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee and Alabama.
In planning this section, our first thought was ‘just do it.’ Move everyday and get to the Gulf of Mexico and warmer temperatures. However, the more we researched and read, we changed our philosophy to ’embrace it/explore more.’ Since we will probably never be in this neck of USA again, we are going to try and continue going slow and seeing what we can see. We will probably do more exploring by renting cars to expand our radius of sights. We will see, like we say, no plans – just intentions.
Friday, September 20, 2024
35 Nautical Miles/ 6 hours 32 minutes
2 locks
Loopers have two choices when leaving Chicago to move south. The southern entrance takes boaters around the city along the Calumet River and Sag Channel. This is an easier route but bypasses the sights and sounds of Chicago. The northern entrance starts at the Chicago Harbor, separating the Chicago River from Lake Michigan with a lock. This route has over 40 bridges that will not open for pleasure crafts, so the air draft of the boat must be under 17 feet. Looking for an adventure, we dropped the mast again, and set sail down the Chicago River.
Location, Location, Location. DuSable Marina is not just along the Riverwalk, a 10 min walk from Navy Pier, close to downtown and Millennium Park but also just alongside the Chicago River. This made for a quick exit to begin cruising, after leaving our slip we were at the Chicago Harbor Lock in just minutes. Cruising down the Chicago River through Downtown Chicago in Three Sons was an amazing experience! Definitely a highlight of the trip to see all the action on land, cruise under dozens of LOW bridges, see hundreds of skyscrapers from the bow of our own boat.
Once out of downtown, the Chicago River turns into the Chicago Sanitation and Ship Canal where the direction of the flow of water was reversed. Yes, in order to have Chicago’s waste not dump into the Great Lakes, but instead move down the river engineers found a way to reverse the flow of the river.
These waterways also connect inland rivers permitting ship traffic to get from the great lakes to the rivers. This makes for a very busy waterway, barges and tugs/tows are not just moving but parked along both sides. The shore is bustling with cranes, forklifts and large bucket trucks moving mounds of gravel, stone and mulch. It is quite a sight to see all the equipment and supplies.
An electric fish barrier is along this route to prevent the spread of an invasive fish species, Asian Carp. The white arch like structure creates a electrical field in the water which repels the fish from swimming through. Actually, it affects the fish’s muscular control causing them to feel uncomfortable and swim away. Therefore preventing the carp from getting into the Great Lakes from the Mississippi.
In planning our route we look at not only nautical miles, but how many locks. This stretch involved two locks, the first we cruised right through and by the time we got to the second, the Lockport Lock we were bunched up with a tug/barge and a few other loopers. Barges get first priority, so, we tied up along a jagged wall and waited our turn. Luckily, about 15 minutes later, the lockmaster said he could squeeze us in and we could tie off to the tug. Three Sons was the first “PC” (personal craft) to enter the lock and Captain Bob did a great job of getting us in the tight lane and along the tug while Tracy finagled lines for a tight tie-up. Down we went with four other loop boats, four barges with heaps and heaps of stone, and a tug.
It was a beautiful, sunny, 95 degree day and our cruise was exciting, thrilling, tiring and hot! We arrived at Joliet Free City Dock excited that we finally meet up again, with Ship Faced! After some hugs and settling in, we enjoyed catching up with cocktails and snacks. Then, we walked over to Harrah’s Casino and had dinner at The Reserve Steak House.
Saturday, September 21, 2024
39 Nautical Miles/6 hours 34 minutes
3 locks
We had planned on calling the lock at 6:50 to get an agenda and time that we could look through. At 6:45 another looper boat had called and was informed to “get here at 7:15!” So, we quickly, jumped out of bed, unplugged the electricity and tossed the lines! All three boats arrived at the Brandon Road Lift Lock and descended with no problems. About 15 miles downbound was our next obstacle on this course, the Dresden Lock. Trying to be proactive and prepared, we called the lock to inform them of our timed arrival. Unfortunately, we were told they had a few tugs in line and it would be 3 hours. We pulled back the throttle, but not even Three Sons can go that slow! After some radio chatter and strategizing, we decided to drop anchor and offer other loopers to raft to us. In 90 degree weather and bright sunny skies, Three Sons anchored and Ship Faced and Northern Lights rafted up. It was a very convenient, fun, comfortable way to wait. By the time, we got the go ahead from the lock master 6 Looper boats were waiting along with 4 pontoon boats. We all coordinated tying to bollards and then rafting with no issues. The pontoon boats blasted music and we all danced while we we descended.
After locking through, the tug was still ahead of us and we had one more lock before our marina. Steven chatted with the lockmaster and a plan was devised to pass the tug and beat it to the lock! We did the calculations and all four boats kept the speed and passed the tug and all its barges arriving at the lock in time to be able to lock us through first, with out delaying the barge.
Two and half miles after the last lock was our marina the looper favorite Heritage Harbor Marina! We all pulled in, docked and then got ready for the famous ‘briefing’ from the harbor host. The two hour presentation about traveling down the rivers supplied us with tons of info to help the journey go smooth. We ended the night having dinner at the marina restaurant with Ship Faced and Northern Lights.
We decided to stay one more day at Heritage Harbor Marina since the forecast for the day was rain and more rain. The marina is very nice with a Tiki4 Bar that is built in sand and has swings and a heated pool with a gazebo along with a great Harbor Walk. In the end, the day was not that rainy, but truth be told we never left the boat to enjoy the marina. A day of rest and catching up of ‘real life chores’ was what this crew needed.
Monday, September 23, 2024
40 Nautical Miles/ 6 hours 17 minutes
1 lock
It was an early out of bed in order to get to the lock! All the night before and early AM communications and planning with other loopers made locking smooth and no waiting. We locked with 6 looper boats including Northern Lights and successfully rescued Into the Mystic’s dropped fender. At one point during the cruise, we needed to pull over and wait because a tug pushing 5×3 barges was taking a turn and needed all the room. Yup, no problem captain, we will push over and wait! Finally, we saw some flying carp and a few bald eagles.
We pulled into Henry Harbor Marina, which can only accommodate small boats with shallow drafts. However, they have access to an old lock wall so, they support Loopers in tying up to this rough, hill wall.
Our plans were to meet up with Ship Faced and go to dinner at Grandma’s Pizza. However, thankfully the sun, moon and sky aligned and Theresa and Steven were able to rent a car and pick us up in a timely manner so, we could drive to Starved Rock Park. WOW, so happy we changed to a this plan! We hiked about 6 miles through well marked trails and boardwalks, magnificent rock formations, amazing canyons, and stairs – lots of stairs and lots of elevation! We ended the evening with a wonderful dinner at The Lodge in the park. Smooth cruising, fun locking and rafting, bald eagle sighting, easy docking, great hiking/exploring nature, wonderful company, and a great meal – a day to remember!
Tuesday, September 24, 2024
33 Nautical Miles/ 5 hours
1 lock
We woke to pouring rain and reflected that we could probably count on one hand the amount of rainy days we had this summer. So, knowing the Illinois River needs some water, we were thankful for the rain. We had a leisurely morning waiting for the rain to move on by. In the end, we drove most of the day between raindrops. Well, truthfully, Bob did the driving and Tracy sat in saloon in her jammies.
We had multiple plans for stops depending on the weather and availability of free docks. Our first intention was to dock at a marina but we were leery because the marina explained “we do not have a lot of water” when I made the reservation. Our friends had docked yesterday and reported – it is shallow! We decided to pass and find a spot where we had less a chance of hitting. The river is low, really low and seeing the roots of the trees at the shore edge is kind of creepy.
We cruised by Peoria City Docks to check them out. The reviews were not good for the docks and as we approached we agreed. For some reason, the town build docks are beautiful but for some reason not supported at all! Also, they way they are built are not friendly for the hull of boats with steel bars sticking out making it impossible to dock. Lucky, we found one good spot to dock Three Sons on the inside against a wall.
Amazingly, the day changed as we were docking, the sun was shining with mid 70 temps. We took advantage of a gorgeous day and small town and went exploring. The Caterpillar Museum (the truck, not bugs) was actually interesting and fun to explore. Our next stop was to a brewery that slogan is “Eat Well and Drink Better Beer in an 1889 Church.” Obed & Isaac’s Microbrewery is an historic, renovated church with stained glass windows, beautiful chandeliers and a bar in the middle with tables instead of pews. The venue was just amazing, the beers and nachos delicious and the service – meh.
After exploring the museum and brewery, Peoria did not offer much more. The town had lots of closed up storefronts and not many folks around. Since it was a gorgeous day and after a call to the next lock we learned no barges were enroute and we could lock through, we decide to keep moving. It just so happened that Northern Lights was passing by our dock and also interested in getting through the lock. We both locked through and decided to drop the hook out side of the lock near the dam, where we were protected from oncoming barges. It was a beautiful night and a perfect plan for and easy exit and cruise the next day.
Wednesday, September 25, 2024
96.5 Nautical Miles/12 hours 29 minutes
1 lock
What a day! We picked up the anchor at 6:47 and cruised until the the sun was setting. Our long day of cruising started a beautiful, eerie foggy morning and quickly turned into clear skies, sun shining —
Cruising along, we stumbled into a barge laying pipes across the river. He asked up to “hold up a minute” and then gave us some mumbled up directions to move out of the channel around the buoys and meander around the working boats and floating pipes. Thankfully, the next radio transmission was from a little boat that said, “follow us!” We certainly appreciated the escort.
After cruising 98 nautical miles the sun was setting and we needed a place to sleep! We dropped the anchor on the side of the Illinois River for the night, safely anchored behind the green buoy. It was such a peaceful, gorgeous, quiet night. We enjoyed watching the barges cruise by, some with huge spotlights and some in total darkness.
Next up is the Upper Mississippi RIver!