We spend lots of time researching weather, managing stops and trying to have no schedule. This is done because we call this pleasure cruising and have no desire to boat in bad weather. This week Mother Nature won and we got caught in probably one of the worse weather patterns of the last two years.
In anticipating high winds/swell blowing through we decided to move from Cape Eleuthera while the weather was good. The 24 Nautical Mile trip was pleasant even though Bob caught no fish. However, once we pulled into Governor’s Harbor things took a turn. Since we had unsuccessfully attempted to anchor here last year, we decided to stay at the one and only marina in the harbor. Being one of 4 boats traveling together we had a plan and a contingency plan that involved docking/rafting and possibly anchoring. Seeing the swells in the harbor and the conditions of the dock, we quickly started radio chatter with our buddy boats.
We decided to hold off docking until the winds clocked around, probably two hours. A buddy boat attempted to dock and quickly aborted the mission. Even though four folks were helping them catch line, they were being smacked into the deck so hard a fender board broke. That was the final straw and they headed into the bay to anchor.
No way were getting off the boat, so we decided to eat on board and make Jambalaya. Yes, we needed all four hands to keep the pot on the stove and maybe it was not the best dinner to prepare, but it was delicious.
As the night progressed the swells increased and no sleep was had for either of us. We binged watched some TV until 2 in the morning and then tried to go into the state room. That lasted 2 minutes for Tracy. The horrific sounds of the swells crashing on, above and below the swim platform was loud and uneasy to listen to. In the saloon, the table was sliding back and forth, to prevent it from crashing over, we tipped it on it’s side. Trying to sleep, we sat in the recliners only to have the chairs open and close due to the rocking and slide back and forth across the floor. At one point, we held on to the dinning chairs and dragged them with us as we slid on the recliners. We did catch a few minutes of ZZZ’s when we tried the v-berth, but we still needed to hold on to something to prevent falling out of bed.
Thankfully both of the apps we use when on anchor showed our position was not changing. Our anchor was holding us in one relative spot. We did enjoy some laughs and silliness but it was a long night. When the sun rose the swells did not stop. Knowing the wind had moved and was lessening and the swells would soon be better, we ventured to the north side of the harbor. Things got better, but it took days to recover from one sleepless night filled with sounds of crashing waves and rocking and swaying from big swells.
Maybe the fact that walking around was difficult added to the fact that only one picture was taken and no videos.
The wind relaxed and we were able to explore Governor’s Harbor. We enjoyed exploring the little town, then had drinks, appetizers and story swapping of our crazy night with fellow boaters at the Buccaneer Club. For dinner we ventured to Frigate’s Bar and Grill where we sat at the bar and enjoyed the company of a local.
The next day, we rented a car and explored some local natural wonders. Once the car was packed up, off we went heading north on Queen’s Highway.
The Glass Bridge
We traveled on the only north/south road that runs the entire length of Eleuthera, Queen’s Highway. Our first stop was at a window-like geological formation that provides a unique view from bay to ocean. The Glass Window Bridge is place where nature’s artistry is on full display. This spot is one of the rare places on Earth where you can directly compare the deep blue of the Atlantic Ocean with the serene turquoise of the Caribbean Sea. We stood in awe of the stark difference on each side. The contrasting colors of these waters, separated by a mere 30-foot-wide strip of land, are a breathtaking sight. Climbing the rocks gave us a different perspective of the forces of water from the ocean crashing through to the calm waters on the other side. We had some childish fun at the natural blow hole trying to see how far a soda can can fly.
Queen’s Bath
Continuing our journey down Eleuthera Island, we stopped at the Queen’s Bath. This natural beauty is on the rugged Atlantic side of the island. The Queen’s Baths or Hot Tubs are a collection of natural pools. They were formed over the years through erosion of the rocks by the dramatic crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean. The water in the pools is filled with shells and small sea life that wash over from the ocean. The water was calm and crystal clear and a stark comparison to the waves crashing on the outside. We were there at low tide so swimming or soaking was an option but the hike down did not look fun so we opted to stay dry.
Hatchet Bay Cave
We hiked these caves last year but they were definitely worthy of a second visit. Hatchet Bay Cave is the most extensive cave system discovered on Eleuthera, extending about 1100 feet underground, with over a mile of twisting passages. There are at least three levels in the cave system, with extravagant stalactite and stalagmite formations. We thought they took on the appearance of various items, for the blog we will say they looked like underground cathedrals in torch light. Reading the walls with centuries-old graffiti of charcoal signatures added to allure of the caves. At one point, we all shut off our flashlights and the darkness was just that pitch black!
Lunch and the Beach
Our drive took us through Gregory Town where we tried to have lunch but the one restaurant was not open. We did find the best gift shop. The little village along a cove reminded me of Italy.
Our next stop was at LeoRosa Sunset Grill overlooking a beautiful beach on the Exuma Bank side. The view was beautiful, the place has a cool vibe and was clean but the food was meh. With full bellies, we headed to Twin Cove Beach. The spit of land that created two separate coves could have made some beautiful views, but we opted to try the French Leave Beach instead. Back in the car and down a road not made for cars, we found our spot. Supposedly, the sand is pink but we did not see it. We enjoyed some drinks, relaxing and visit from an adorable, friendly potcake.
